Visiting the Golden Lands of Myanmar
- Lifestyles
- Travel & Leisure
- Travel Destinations
Author: Tricia Franck
Released 21 February 2005
Old Wise Monk
Photograph Contributed by Tricia and Charlie Franck
This was our first trip to Burma.
Initially when we lived in Bangkok (1986-1990) Americans were not allowed to travel to Burma.
Then in the late 80's it became possible, but our children were very young and it was not advised. So we were thrilled to finally make it. We have wanted to visit for many years. We stayed eight days spending two days in Yangon (the first and last), three days in Bagan (formerly Pagan), and three days in Shan State, on Inle Lake.
The decision to visit Myanmar is a personal one. Politically the country is run by a military dictatorship and there is a zero tolerance policy for any type of dissonance. Those that speak out are arrested and held indefinitely. However, Aung San Suu Kyi, leader of the National League for Democracy who has been under house arrest, publicly asked that tourists come to Burma and give their money to individual business people, trying to avoid doing business with government owned shops or hotels. It was interesting to see a sign in Yangon that said, “Anyone who is riotous, destructive and unruly is our enemy”. Be sure to pick up a local newspaper. It makes for interesting reading.
First Meal in Yangon
Photograph Contributed by Tricia and Charlie Franck
In Yangon, formerly Rangoon, we stayed at the Savoy Hotel on Dhammazedi Road which is a five minute walk from the famous Shwedagon Paya temple complex. It is a cozier and less expensive alternative to The Strand Hotel (of Raffles fame). It is relatively small with just 30 rooms and quite tastefully decorated with teak and antique furnishings. Many of the items on display are actually for sale and the prices were reasonable. We enjoyed sitting by their lovely palm-fringed pool in the late afternoon, having a drink and eating the freshly fried potato chips and roasted peanuts, which are grown in Myanmar. A full breakfast is included in the price and the hotel staff was happy to serve the meal anytime. We found the staff quite accommodating and friendly and the hotel felt intimate. We would definitely recommend staying there.
Glittering Shwedagon Stupa, Yangon
Photograph Contributed by Tricia and Charlie Franck
While in Yangon, the capital city, we spent a half day at the spectacular Shwedagon Paya temple complex, which Kipling called ‘a golden mystery....a beautiful winking wonder.’ In some ways this site is like the Kabbah in Mecca; it is the most sacred temple complex in the country and all Burmese Buddhists hope to visit it at least once in their lifetime. We were there on the last Saturday of the calendar year and also the eve of a full moon. I am not certain which was more auspicious, but the place was packed with worshippers.
The main zedi, or bell shaped monument, rises 98 meters above it’s base and was originally built 2,500 years ago. In earthquake prone Myanmar, most monuments have been rebuilt numerous times, and the main zedi is no exception. It was last redone in 1769 and when we were there, bamboo scaffolding covered the majority of the stupa. Barefooted men scampered up and down, side to side, working diligently to restore the gold shine. Upon further inspection, they were using a Brasso type cleaner, which made it reflect the tropical sun with brilliance. The large complex was filled with a maze of shrines, pavilions, images, bells and stupas. The best plan is to get a guide that can explain the various stories, beginning with the one about the brothers who met Buddha and were given eight of his hairs to be enshrined in Myanmar.
Market Scene
Photograph Contributed by Tricia and Charlie Franck
Shopping at the Bogyoke Aung San Market is a must. There you will find the largest selection of Burmese handicrafts, including woven bags, silk of all types, lacquerware, gems, jewelry, cheroots (fat hand rolled cigars that are commonly smoked, even by women). We found the vendors friendly and most spoke English. There was some amazing art work for sale, oils and watercolors, quite inexpensively priced. Burma is famous for their imperial jade, emeralds and pigeon-blood rubies, however buyers beware. Find a reliable dealer who is licensed by the government to make sure your money is well spent.
Full Moon, Time to Shave
Photograph Contributed by Tricia and Charlie Franck
On our second day we flew to Bagan, which is an amazing, magical part of Myanmar that covers a 40 square kilometer area containing over 2,000 800-year-old temples and stupas. Many are in ruin from the most recent earthquake in 1975, but none the less interesting. All sizes of monuments are included, from huge and glorious to small and humble, standing all alone in a field. We walked into town from our hotel and were totally transfixed by the beauty of the temples we passed. When we least expected them, they appeared out of nowhere. Some were occupied by monks and we witnessed young novices shaving each other’s heads for the full moon. We were welcome to tromp through the calf deep grass and experience the sites, taking pictures and exploring.
Bagan Pagodas
Photograph Contributed by Tricia and Charlie Franck
We spent two days with an excellent tour guide visiting many of the more famous and intact structures in the Bagan Archaeological Zone. Some had frescos that retained their original colors, others had Buddha’s in various positions, each with a different name and style. The architectural styles in Bagan are mind boggling. A person could dedicate a lifetime studying them. The different archways, gold stupas, vaulted ceilings, open windows, marble floors, figures of Vishnu, Buddha, engraved Buddhist scriptures, plaster and wood carvings....all are feasts to the eyes.
Hotel on the River, Bagan
Photograph Contributed by Tricia and Charlie Franck
We stayed at the Thiripyitsaya Sakura Hotel, which is located right outside of Old Bagan, on the Irrawaddy River. The garden bungalows are well appointed and quite expensive, but definitely worth considering. We stayed in a bungalow that was divided into four rooms, which was adequate. The grounds were breathtakingly beautiful. The bar opened onto the pool which overlooked the river. It provided a wonderful place to relax after a long day of sightseeing.
Hotel, Bagan, Myanmar
Photograph Contributed by Tricia and Charlie Franck
On our third day in Bagan we shopped at the local market finding excellent bargains and visited a couple lacquerware shops. Burma is famous for its lacquerware and investing in a few fine pieces is a must. Qualities vary so one must use discretion to find the right piece. After our shopping we drove 90 minutes to the Mt. Popa area where we checked in at the totally outrageous Popa Mountain Resort. Located on a steep side of a volcanic peak of Mt. Popa, at an elevation of 2,500 feet, it was enchanting. Billed as an ‘eco-friendly’ resort, if offered horseback riding, bird and butterfly watching, a 9-hole golf course, mountain trekking and nature walks. The rooms were large and decorated with teak furniture and local textiles. An entire wall was glass which made it seem as if we were a part of the forest. The oversized private balcony and comfortable rattan furniture offered the perfect place to share late afternoon tea and Christmas cookies I had brought from Dhahran. We were only there for about 15 hours due to our early morning flight so we did not get to enjoy it as much as we would have liked. It would be a place to go to relax, meditate, work on a book or pursue a solitary hobby. Nearby is Mt Popa, which is home to the 37 nats (pronounced ‘nuts’) or spirits, and is an important worship center. Some of our group climbed up to the top of the 737 meter solitary peak to see the complex of monasteries, stupas and shrines.
Golden Island Cottage Welcoming Committee, Inle Lake
Photograph Contributed by Tricia and Charlie Franck
On our fifth day our destination was Inle Lake, in Shan State. We flew from Bagan to Heho (which has the smallest ATR landing strip in the world, a mere12.5m wide), rode in a minivan for nearly two hours on pavement that was almost wide enough for one vehicle, although it was a two lane road. There were pot holes and soft shoulders, reminiscent of when we lived in Kenya. After arriving at Nyaungshwe, we then boarded a long tailed dug out boat, with a high powered motor, for our 70 minute journey to our hotel on stilts, on the southeast side of the lake. Locals sit folded up like pretzels in the bottom of the boat but mercifully they lined up deck chairs for us. Inle Lake is 22 miles long and we stayed at the Golden Island Cottages which is near Nampan. The individual bamboo and hardwood cottages are on stilts and one can definitely feel them moving from time to time. Overall they are old, rundown and offer few amenities. However, the staff was welcoming and accommodating. When our boat first arrived about 12 employees came out and played musical instruments to greet us. We loved staying on the lake and were intrigued with the culture, but if we were to return, we would stay at the Inle Princess Resort, which is closer to Nyaungshwe, more modern, and offers more amenities.
Inle Lake, Shan State
Photograph Contributed by Tricia and Charlie Franck
Once settled in, you must have a water taxi at your disposal. We hired our boatman to stay with us for the two days (USD 20.00 per day for 6 people), taking us all around the lake, and then back to meet the minivan in Nyaungshwe. Life on the lake is fascinating, where there are 17 villages on stilts, mostly inhabited by the Intha people. The theory is that the Intha people migrated to the lake area from southern Myanmar centuries ago. Culturally and linguistically they are different from their Shan neighbors, but are Buddhists and there is no shortage of kyaung or stupas (1,000) around the lake. The Intha are amazingly coordinated which is evidenced by their unique way of propelling their flat bottomed boats. They stand at the stern on one leg and wrap the other leg around the oar, and then propel the paddle with their leg! This technique offers relief to the arms and it also enables the rower to better see the potential obstacles in the water, like the floating islands and water hyacinth. We saw very young boys (7 years old) who had mastered this skill, taking the family boat out for a solo trip.
Taung Tho Kyaung Market
Photograph Contributed by Tricia and Charlie Franck
The lake offers endless hours of sight seeing, just exploring the different neighborhoods. Fishing using cone shaped nets over bamboo frames is fascinating to watch. There are what appeared to be hydroponics gardens, acres of them, filled with ripe tomatoes ,other vegetables and beautiful flowers. There is also a circuit that is rather touristy that most boatmen will attempt to take guests on, including stops at a blacksmith shop, silver shop, pottery place, and silk weaving center. We were most impressed with the silk weavers, who had about five houses, on stilts, connected. Silk is imported from China and then woven there. Room after room filled with looms were evident and we heard the sound of the shuttle clacking echoing off the water. They weave more silk garments there than anywhere in the country, after Amarapura.
There is a ‘five day market’ on the lake that changes location each day. This is definitely worth a visit. We went to one that was on land and then the next day we went to the floating market. Definitely go to one that is on land, where you can at least walk around and look at your convenience. The floating market was one major traffic jam of tourist boats and vendor boats, all trapped in a narrow waterway. It was entertaining for about five minutes. There were hill tribe people at the land market and they were fascinating to see, all dressed in their distinct clothes. We thoroughly enjoyed our time on the lake and would highly recommend it.
Myanmar is a spectacular and diverse country and is certainly more deserving than an eight day visit. Having said that, I felt that our time was appropriated well and I would not have changed our itinerary.
Stretch Limo, Inle Style
Photograph Contributed by Tricia and Charlie Franck
A tourist visa must be obtained prior to arrival and Myanmar is one of two countries in the world where that can be done on line! Go to http://www.visa.gov.mm/ and be prepared to pay $30.00, plus send a digital photo. Within a few days a visa will be sent via email and you are ready to travel. Myanmar used to require tourists to exchange US$200.00 into Foreign Exchange Certificates. This, I am happy to report, is no longer required. Do be aware that credit cards are generally not accepted, so travel with plenty of cash.