Bites of London - Portobello Road Market

Author: Nancy Ackerman
Released 13 February 2005

Nancy Ackerman Shops Portobello Road
Photograph Contributed by Nancy Ackerman

Saturday in London means a visit to Portobello Road.

Trinkets, treasures and trash, along with food, fashion, flower stalls and adventurous eating…await visitors to London’s famed street market, a must for every visitor to London. Yes, even for those who ‘hate’ shopping or balk at ‘tourist’ destinations!

Nancy Finds Fresh Produce for Sale
Photograph Contributed by Nancy Ackerman

Street trading began on Portobello Road around 1860 (because the road led to Porto Bello Farm) and consisted mainly of fruits and vegetables. In the 1940s antiques traders began moving into the area when the Caledonian antiques market closed down, and during the 1950s and 60s, when the antiques business started to take off, Portobello’s antiques market took off with it. Today there are more than 2000 traders operating each week.

Treasures Found Among Eclectic Goods for Sale
Photograph Contributed by Nancy Ackerman

Portobello is great fun for the serious antiques shopper as well as for the collector of Dinky toys or egg cups, militaria or art. The permanent buildings along the road generally offer the finer antiques (anything from carpets or silver to that rare Steiff teddy bear or a First Folio of Shakespeare). Some premises rent out their basements, ground floors and sidewalk areas, which are partitioned to accommodate scores of dealers enjoying the cheaper rents.

Collectibles Abound
Photograph Contributed by Nancy Ackerman

Most of these stallholders specialize, and they all enjoy talking about their offerings with interested folks. Out on the street are the pitches, stalls set up on either side that offer just about anything you can imagine. Sure, you’re going to pass some predictable tourist reproductions and general claptrap along the way, but the continued popularity and success of this market is ample testimony to its vendors and wares.

Street Side Entertainment
Photograph Contributed by Nancy Ackerman

For added entertainment you might also encounter one of Portobello’s many buskers who are dotted along the route. Perhaps a fellow playing steel drums, or a Peruvian band entertaining the crowd with Andean pipe music, or even an elderly tap dancer gentleman willing to shuffle for you in exchange for a coin tossed into his shabby top hat. When you pass the fruit and veg stands you’re also sure to hear the bellows of the vendors calling out how fresh and cheap their produce is. Portobello is noisy and lively!

Keep An Eye Open For Bargain Antiques
Photograph Contributed by Nancy Ackerman

It’s not easy to find a bargain in the market, but it happens. It is, however, very possible to find just what you’re looking for to enhance a collection, or for that special gift to take home. And, of course, bargaining is not only acceptable practice, it’s expected. I usually ask, ‘what’s your best price on this?” which often brings the item down to what I will pay. The fun is hunting for the unusual and unique, as well as the scruffy bargain found while rummaging through a hawkers street bin at the far end of Portobello.

Flower Stand
Photograph Contributed by Nancy Ackerman

Some shops open during the week (the permanent antiques dealers), and the vegetable, fruit and flower market is open daily except Sunday and Monday, but Saturday is the big day. Since this is such a well-known market and so popular, try to arrive ahead of the throng (8:30 – 9:00 a.m.); after that it can be a real crush in high season.

Stands of Used Books
Photograph Contributed by Nancy Ackerman

The south end is antiques and some reproductions, merging north into the fruit, vegetable and flower carts. Then as you come to the overhead bridge (Westway flyover) the mood swings to funk and there will be more clothes and music than antiques (though you can still find them here and there).

Portable Treats
Photograph Contributed by Nancy Ackerman

If you keep going for another couple of blocks you’ll come to Golborne Road. Bear right, and you will find yourself in another atmosphere entirely, mainly Moroccan, Turkish and Middle Eastern, with the appropriate food shops and spices. On Friday and Saturday they also set up street stalls for antiques and junk.

Lunch on the Go
Photograph Contributed by Nancy Ackerman

All of this walking and shopping makes eating very attractive at some point along the way. If all you want is something to grab and go as you continue to shop, you’ll find wonderful hot food stalls nestled in the fruit and veg area of the market. Especially good are the hot bangers (sausages) on grilled baguettes, smothered in cooked onions, and the crepes to go which can be sweet or savory.

Fresh Baked Breads
Photograph Contributed by Nancy Ackerman

There are also stalls selling every manner of breads and filled baps and croissants, which you can buy to munch with your latte purchased from one of the many coffee houses lining the street. But if your feet need a rest as well, then make a stop at one of the wonderful cafés you will pass along the way.

Restaurant Guide

Portobello Road
Photograph Contributed by Nancy Ackerman

Manzara, 24 Pembridge Road
From the Notting Hill Gate tube, this is one of the first places you will pass en route to Portobello. It is wonderful, and it is worth making an early start just for the excuse to stop here for a cappuccino and an almond croissant. Inexpensive.

Earl Of Lonsdale Pub, Portobello Road and Westbourne Road
Newly refurbished, this is the best pub around the area and serves up more than the usual pub beverages; coffees, teas and hot meals are served all day. Inexpensive.

Books For Cooks, 4 Blenheim Crescent
A short walk to your left off Portobello will bring you to this well-known bookshop with a tiny kitchen in the rear and a few tables set up. You can buy whatever the guest chef has made that day and be confident that it will be delicious. Expect outstanding pastries plus warming soups and a luncheon casserole of some sort from a daily changing menu. Inexpensive.

Argile Gallery & Café, 7 Blenheim Crescent
Across the street from Books for Cooks, the Argile serves nice sandwiches, soups and small main courses. All the art on the walls is for sale. Inexpensive.

Fancy Cheeses
Photograph Contributed by Nancy Ackerman

Makan, under the Westway Flyover
Authentic Malay food to eat in or take away. Very good and very popular. Inexpensive.

Sausage and Mash, under the Westway Flyover
The best S&M you are going to find in London. Customize your bangers and mash by selecting your type of sausage (many fantastic varieties), your choice of mash, and choice of gravy. If that’s too much (but you’ll finish it anyway) you can order your choice of sausages (2) on a baguette with grilled onions. Inexpensive.

Café Oporto, 62A Golborne Road
A Portuguese café serving great sandwiches and pastries and very competitive.

Lisboa Patisserie, 57 Golborne Road
Go for the luscious custard tarts but everything else is wonderful, too.
Both the above open 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. every day and both very inexpensive and crowded on weekends.

Getting There

Scrumptious Baked Goods
Photograph Contributed by Nancy Ackerman

For more information on PORTOBELLO ROAD go to: www.portobelloroad.co.uk

Tube: Notting Hill Gate; directions to the market are posted as you exit the tube stop.
Bus: 23 or 27 will take you right to Portobello Road.

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