Venice: Eid Trip to the Jewel of Italy
- Lifestyles
- Travel & Leisure
- Travel Destinations
Author: Britney B.
Released 4 March 2004
Terry Attracts the Birds
Photograph by Britney B.
Over the centuries it has been an inspiration for musicians, writers and artists, and as one of the world’s most unique and appealing cities whatever time of year you choose to visit Venice it will hold you spellbound by its charms.
Unfortunately it was showing the least of them during the first week of February this year as the weather grew colder and colder, the mists and finally a heavy fog set it. Nonetheless, five of us enjoyed a great week in this most fascinating place which D.H. Lawrence once described as “an abhorrent, green, slippery city”. Yes, and it’s wonderful. This was my third visit and proved just as enjoyable as the other two, though I would recommend it at a warmer time of year.
This was also the first time I’d arrived by air at Marco Polo Airport. As it was growing dark we decided to blow the budget and catch a water taxi to our hotel (around 80 Euros). The alternative would have been to take the airport shuttle waterbus to St. Mark’s Square and then change to one of the vaporetti (commuter water buses) that cruise along the Grand Canal and tributaries to the stop nearest our hotel. We were just in time to appreciate the Venetian skyline from a distance, but by the time we hit the waterfront of the city darkness had crept in so we were resigned to wait until next day to see the city in all its glory.
Luckily the hotel we were staying at has its own landing stage so we didn’t have to struggle with luggage. The Pensione Accademia – Villa Maravege is located almost adjacent to the Grand Canal near the Accademia Bridge and is very convenient for the Accademia Art Gallery and Accademia vaporetto stop. This 17th century pallazzo was once home to the Russian Embassy and retains much of its original character. Its 27 rooms are furnished with antiques and it has two pretty gardens, one with a view of the Grand Canal, which in the summer would be a lovely spot for guests to relax after the rigors of a morning’s sightseeing. The Accademia is a really charming and atmospheric place to stay and although it offers room and breakfast only, it has a small bar that’s open late afternoon and early evenings with a splendid log fire to cosy up around with an aperitif before going out to dine.
View from the Campanile
Photograph by Britney B.
Next day was sunny and bright but very very cold. Each armed with Fodor’s City Pack of Venice, we decided to explore the city by foot and soon discovered one advantage of visiting at this time of year - it was quite devoid of tourists. We made our way to St. Mark’s Square and here Terry couldn’t resist buying some pigeon food - you can see the results in the photo! There was hardly any queue for the elevator to the top of the Campanile and we were soon experiencing some of the best panoramic views of the city and its surroundings. It was such a lovely bright day we could clearly see the snow covered Dolomites in the distance. The Campanile is Venice’s tallest building and was originally built around 912 as bell tower for the Basilica of St. Mark’s and as a lighthouse for the harbor below. Due apparently to a design fault in its foundations, the Campanile collapsed in 1912. No one was hurt and the Basilica and Ducal Palace escaped serious damage. The Campanile was immediately rebuilt, though this time 650 tons lighter with extra large foundations.
No Alley Cat: Paco
Photograph by Britney B.
Over the next few days we alternated shopping and sightseeing, visiting the Doge’s Palace, Accademia Gallery, and doing a very interesting walk from the Fodor’s booklet which covers the old Jewish quarter of the city and the ghetto. It also covers the area where the climax to the film adaptation of Daphne du Maurier’s book Don’t Look Now took place – where Donald Sutherland pursued what he believed to be a red-coated child as she skipped across the bridges and alleyways into a doorway. It must be a very spooky place at night, especially if you’ve seen the film. For part of this walk we were accompanied by a very special sort of Venetian, Paco, who seemed delighted with his photo being taken at every opportunity! Shops are interesting and expensive. As the Venice carnival was due to start in the middle of February they were full of masks and costumes, though no doubt these are on sale throughout the year as souvenirs. The market area by the Rialto Bridge is worth a visit but the prices on some of the market stalls are higher than the shops.
One of the best ways to see Venice is undoubtedly by vaporetto, and for best value buy a tourist ticket for 22.50 Euros, valid for 72 hours, or 10 Euros, valid for 24 hours. These tickets allow you access to every route in the city including boats to the Lido (the swimming and beach area and also home to the Venice Film Festival each September) and the islands of Murano and Burano. Otherwise each single trip will cost you 5 Euros. We made full use of our 72-hour tickets and enjoyed every minute.
Burano
Photograph by Britney B.
Time to take our sightseeing away from the city for a day to visit a couple of the Venetian islands. Murano has been a glass-making center since the 13th century, when foundries were moved to the island to eliminate the risk of fire. Glass had previously been made around the Venice area since Roman times. Though many stores sell Murano glass in Venice itself, the best choice and value for money is supposedly on the island. We couldn’t find any glass blowers in their workshops and I guess this treat is held purely for summer visitors. I’ve seen it on previous visits and it’s very interesting. Burano is forty minutes by vaporetto from Venice. I had never been here before and was amazed at its quaintness and pretty painted houses that the fishermen’s wives traditionally painted in bright colors so their husbands could find their way back to the island in the mists. Burano is famous for its lace making and in the Museo dei Merletti you can see intricate examples of traditional lace. No doubt in the summer you will also be able to watch local women making lace, though like the glass blowers of Murano they were nowhere to be seen at this time of year. There were many opportunities to purchase local lace however from shops and stalls along the main canal.
Venice ranks as one of the world’s most expensive cities. When eating out it’s still possible to get an excellent pizza or pasta dish from 6 Euros at a trattoria or osteria, but more upmarket restaurants will take away a pretty hefty slice of your budget. Venice’s Danieli and Gritti Palace are two of Europe’s most famous hotels. A Bellini cocktail (fresh peach juice and champagne) at either hotel’s piano bar will set you back 18-19 Euros plus tax, though the pianist at the Gritti Palace was much better than the Danieli’s. The legendary Harry’s Bar, a favorite haunt of novelist Ernest Hemingway and therefore a popular tourist hangout, is a little overrated and according to Fodor’s guide not as good as it used to be. We dined there one evening and the food can best be described as adequate and the service abysmal. I did have the best pumpkin soup ever though but it was probably the most expensive soup I’d ever had as well. Here again a Bellini cocktail is around 19 Euros if you just want a drink in the downstairs bar.
The Rialto Bridge
Photograph by Britney B.
Two of the best restaurants we ate at are both in the Fodor’s guide. The Trattoria Alla Madonna is situated in a fairly insalubrious alleyway by the Grand Canal near the Rialto Bridge. One of Venice’s most authentic restaurants and one of the oldest, the Alla Madonna is frequented by locals and looks as though it’s stepped out of the 1950’s. The food is excellent and very reasonably priced, the waiters chirpy and humorous, and we really enjoyed our meal there. The Taverna San Trovaso is on the opposite side of the canal just over a bridge from the Pensione Accademia and therefore very convenient after a day’s sightseeing. Also popular with Venetians, it serves basic Italian fare at reasonable prices. For a terrific night out though you can’t beat the Antico Martini restaurant near St. Mark’s Square. Established in the 18th century, it is well known as one of Venice’s most stylish restaurants, serving classic Venetian cuisine and specializing in seafood dishes. The food is excellent and though a little pricey well worth splashing out on. It also has an excellent piano bar (more like a nightclub) adjacent to the restaurant with very good live entertainment and dancing. Suitable for all ages, you won’t regret a night spent here, you’ll have a great time and you won’t have to dine at the restaurant to get in. Drinks are suitably priced for the entertainment on offer and there’s no admission charge.
The highlight of the week for me was undoubtedly a concert of the Venetian composer Vivaldi’s music at a beautiful old church, the Chiesa San Vidal, performed by the Interpreti Veneziani. This most talented group of musicians made up of violinists and cellists performed Vivaldi’s Four Seasons and pieces by Bach and Manuel de Falla. The concerts are held regularly and are a must for anyone interested in classical music as the atmosphere and acoustics in the church make for a very magical few hours.
The Pensione Accademia
Photograph by Britney B.
We flew to Venice by British Airways from London Gatwick to Venice Marco Polo. Flights can be included with a return fare Dhahran/London. I flew from London to Venice return and booked through the British Airways website. The flight was cheaper booking online than it would have been if I’d used one of the so called “no frills” airlines operating from the U.K.
A double room at the Pensione Accademia costs around 170 Euros at this time of year, including breakfast and taxes. The Accademia is located in the Dorsoduro area of Venice, telephone 041 5210188, fax 041 5239152, www.pensioneaccademia.it.